Ride craft

Riders will often tell you it’s their bike that couldn’t handle the bend – the truth is most accidents that happen in corners happen because the rider couldn’t handle the bend.

So what can you do to make sure you nail it? And how can your sixth sense help you stay in control?

First up, remember the corner doesn’t start when you reach the bend, it starts before you arrive.

So make sure you’ve got your approach speed right.

You should always aim to get your braking done before you enter the corner, never in it.

Shed speed on the approach and wind it back on as you exit.

The right approach speed is critical because it gives you time to assess and adjust your line.

Turn in too early and you’ll run wide on the exit of the corner.

Turn in too late and you’ll find yourself on the wrong side of the white lines, off the road or heading into the oncoming traffic.

Get your approach speed right, get your gear right, turn at the right point and the corner should flow naturally.”

Next, what sort of corner are you heading into?

Is it a blind corner?

Is it off camber?

Is it going to tighten up on you, or open out and let you get the power down early?”

Even if you’ve never ridden it before, one way to work out what the next corner is going to be like is to look for the vanishing point – the point where the two sides of the road meet up.

Just here.

In general, if it moves away from you as you go in, it’s opening up.

If it moves towards you, it’s gonna be tight.

It’s not foolproof, but it’s a pretty good heads up.

Once you’re in the bend, remember to keep your head up and look through the corner to where you want to go, because that’s where the bike is going to go.

Start looking short or fixating on that gum tree at the side of the road and the chances are you’re gonna be shaking the koalas out of it real soon.

And try to stay off the brakes as much as you can, it sounds wrong if you’ve got your turning-in point and your approach speed right you’ll be in control and the bike should handle the corner no worries.

Leaving you free to focus on making a smooth exit.

All of these are things you can directly affect as the rider, but there are some things you simply have to deal with.

The weather for instance can really mess up a corner.

We all know to be wary of poor visibility and slippery roads when it rains…

…but bad weather can also increase the risk of debris or standing water remaining in corners long after the event.

Stay focused and try to identify issues like these early in case you need to adjust your road position or adopt a more cautious riding style.

And then there’s camber…

Generally, a corner with positive camber is a good thing.

When a corner is higher on the outside and lower on the inside it means you can lean in less and gravity works in your favour, forcing you and the bike towards the inside of the curve, increasing the area of your tyres that’s gripping the surface and helping to keep you on the road.

Negative camber on the other hand is a bugger – especially when it’s wet or there’s debris on the road.

Because the corner is lower on the outside it means you have to increase your lean angle, while gravity is now working against you trying to push you to the edge of the road.

To counter this effect, just take things a bit easier on the throttle and you’ll maintain grip and control.

And remember, the angle of camber can change in a single bend or a series of bends, so never switch off.

It sounds like a lot to think about in a split second, but we all do it every day, on different types of corners and in different road and weather conditions.

By developing and honing your sixth sense you can improve your cornering technique, and you and your bike will both be able to handle the bend.

Riding solo is fun but riding with a group of mates takes it to a whole other level.

Developing a sixth sense for group dynamics and learning to look out for every member of the group will help you enjoy it even more.

If you’re new to group riding it’s easy to get pushed into riding beyond your ability.

The best way to stop this happening is to ride with people you trust.

If you’re less experienced, real mates will respect your skill level and ride accordingly.

Equally, if you’re an experienced rider and a new rider joins the group, it’s your responsibility to make sure you don’t encourage them to try too hard to stay in touch.

Get the group to ease back a bit and look after the newbie.

Remember you were in their position once.

A common problem for group riders is speeding.

We’ve all seen it happen, everyone starts off riding together but then one rider has a faster bike so they up the pace a bit, and then another responds and then another doesn’t want to be the odd one out so they give it a bit of extra throttle too and soon the whole group is going too fast, risking lives and demerit points.

So if someone new comes along and does something dumb, like speeding, just let them go.

Group riding isn’t a competition – if you want to compete, go to a track day.

Trust your sixth sense on this one and speak up.

If they want to ride with you again, they need to understand the group’s attitude and agree with it.

Of course there are going to be times when the group gets split up because of traffic conditions or road signals.

But when it happens don’t worry, just relax, stay in control and don’t fall into the trap of pushing harder to catch up.

Instead, agree on a couple of meeting points that you can use if the group gets too spread out and catch up there.

If you’re an experienced group, it often helps to ride in a staggered formation, with the lead bike taking up a position on the right hand side of your lane and the rest of you staggered at 3 second intervals on opposite sides of the lane. That way every rider has a clear view of the road and the bike ahead, and plenty of time to adjust and react to any issues.”

And if more than one of you feels comfortable taking the lead, it’s always a good idea to swap over at rest breaks to share the load.”

Different bikes, different riding styles, different people – that’s what makes group riding a blast.

So get organised, work out your route in advance, plan your rest stops, ride to the abilities of the least experienced rider in your group, stay focused on making sure no-one gets left behind and you’ll have an awesome day out.

Getting back into riding after a few years away feels like you’ve got your freedom back, but it’s not as simple as just putting on the helmet and hitting the road.

For returning riders, the most dangerous time is the first couple of months back on the bike.

Because your attention is focused on regaining your muscle memory and the physical side of riding, you tend to pay less attention to the traffic and road conditions.

So taking a bit of time to rediscover your sixth sense and reboot your riding skills is a good idea.

It’s best to take things a bit easier to begin with.

Riding an unfamiliar bike increases your chances of having an accident, so get to know your bike on a few quiet local roads before heading for the twisties.

And remember it’s not just you that’s changed. The bikes have too…

The latest generation of bikes is safer, more rideable and more reliable than ever.

That’s why most riders decide to buy a new bike rather than dust off the old one.

I’m not saying you shouldn’t go back to the old faithful, but think about what you want to get out of riding this time round before you make a decision.

So what has changed?

Let’s start with power.

Almost every bike you can buy today has more power than the ones we used in MotoGP twenty years ago.

So you need to get used to the horsepower available at every twist of the wrist.

And with all that power to control, brakes have changed too.

With one finger you can now brake harder than you used to be able to using your whole hand.

So you’ll have to relearn how to use the brakes and just how much or how little pressure you need to stay in control.

Quite a lot of the bikes even have ABS these days.

But don’t think that means you can just grab the lever and let the system do the rest.

Even with ABS, practising your braking can still save you valuable metres in stopping distance.

Bikes are also becoming heavier, which means they take more strength to control. If you’re coming back to riding and you’re tempted to buy a bigger, heavier, more powerful bike than you used to ride, it’s not a bad idea to brush up your skills on a smaller bike first.

Especially if it’s been a while.

What looks great in the showroom doesn’t look so clever in a ditch at the side of the road.

A few catch up lessons will help get your body used to riding again and clue you in to the way bikes have changed.

One benefit of bigger bikes is that it makes life much more comfortable for pillion passengers.

Chances are you didn’t spend a lot of time with a pillion when you were younger, but for many returning riders part of the fun is being able to share the ride with a partner.

Key to being a good rider and pillion team is communication.

Invest in an intercom system or develop a set of signals that keep you in sync on the bike.

Naturally, carrying a passenger alters the weight distribution of the bike and affects the braking and handling, so maybe take a few shorter trips first to make sure you and your passenger get used to riding together before you tackle a long weekender.

If you’re returning to riding, take time to rediscover and reboot your sixth sense.

Get used to your bike, get used to traffic conditions and never stop working on your riding skills, because you can teach an old dog new tricks.

When you’re riding a bike on the open road, you’re about as vulnerable as it gets.

That’s why you need to raise your awareness of everything around you to a higher level, and get in touch with your inner biking jedi.

Roadcraft is a vital part of your skill set and fundamental to developing your sixth sense.

Put simply, roadcraft is observation, speed management, road positioning and attitude.

Observing what’s happening around you can buy you precious time to react. And that means riding at a pace where your reaction time and riding ability fits within your range of vision.

A good rule of thumb is to ride 3 seconds behind the vehicle in front and try to be able to see 6 seconds ahead down the road.

You need to be constantly scanning for anything that could take you down, a concealed driveway, rain or oil on the road, gravel or leaves in a corner.

If you find you’re constantly making last second corrections, you probably need to manage your speed better.

Back off the throttle a little bit and give yourself more time to observe and react.

And never forget, weather conditions and debris on the road can play a big part in both your response times and the bike’s braking performance.

So give yourself even more time in the wet – set off earlier and take it easier on the ride. Or choose not to hit the road at all, that works every time.

Managing your speed is easier when you’re in a good road position to begin with.

Basically, the more space you can give yourself, the more time you’ve got to see what’s going on around you.

And the more chance other drivers have of seeing you.

Generally, the right hand side of the lane gives you good line of sight ahead, to the sides and behind.

But if your vision is limited, like in some corners or when you’re following a bus or truck, you need to anticipate oncoming traffic and actively manage your position to create space from other vehicles or hazards.

Anticipating road conditions is one thing, anticipating what other road users are going to do is a whole different ball game.

Drivers are unpredictable and easily distracted, so you need to be thinking several steps ahead.

They’ll turn first – and say, “Sorry mate, didn’t see you there.

This is where having a finely tuned sixth sense can make all the difference. Look for subtle signs that they’re going to make a turn or change lane – look at the car’s wheels not the car, they’ll give you the first clue of movement.

Check the driver’s head position, it will usually turn in the direction they’re intending to go.

Is the car ahead wandering around in its lane?

Maybe the driver is about to make a move.

Don’t just rely on the car’s indicators, some drivers leave it to the last second to switch them on.

And try to learn as much as you can about blind spots and how to stay out of them.

Basically, if you can see the driver’s eyes in their mirrors, they can see you.

Roadcraft isn’t just about riding skills, it’s also about attitude.

When your head’s in the right place, your bike is more likely to be in the right place too.

So if you’re tired, take a break and rehydrate.

If you’re angry or frustrated, take time out to cool down and refocus.

And if you’re under the influence of alcohol or drugs just forget about getting on the bike at all.

That’s why I’m a great believer in knowing your own ability and finding the training and help that can take your roadcraft to the next level of skill and experience.

The two best friends of an urban rider are space and time.

Space to manoeuvre. Time to react.

Keep your Ride Craft tuned up.

It might just save your life.

Every time you get into a car

Expect a rider

Because if you expect a rider

You might just save a riders life.

Your Ride Craft includes checking your bike before you ride.

Brakes, tyres, chain, rider…

‘Cos just like your bike, you’ve gotta keep your Ride Craft tuned up.

It might just save your life.

Riders know, external dangers are everywhere — and you can’t control them.

But you can control your Ride Craft — so keep your Ride Craft tuned up.

It might just save your life.